Valentine’s day – Surf Report

So yesterday while Keenan was surfing outback, I grabbed Julia’s camera, ran down and spent about 15 minutes taking some photos.  The waves outback at Pistols were really good at about chest to a foot overhead on the peaks.CIMG2052

Loads of barrels and super fun, vertical sections to play on.  After taking photos, Keenan came in, rested and then we both paddled out.  I had my best surf session in the past 3 months.  Not that the waves were super big….that shoulder high to a foot overhead range is great for me.   About 15 minutes into my session, I literally got 4 waves in a row, with an ‘in / out’ tube section off the peak to a punt section at the close-out.  Barrel, punt, paddle, barrel, punt, paddle, barrel, punt, paddle, barrel, punt, paddle.  An equal amount of barrels, punts and even paddling…because the lineup is so close.CIMG2054Just Keenan and I out, trading waves, hooting, wavegasming….just like in the movies!  As I am writing this, I am looking down at the Pistols lineup and can see the same thing about to happen all over again.   It is a beautiful thing to be able to get up out of my hammock, grab my board and literally be in the lineup in 1 minute.   For those of you who have not yet experienced Pistols firing….you should come try it out, especially those surfers looking for a challenge and a super chill vibe, in and out of the water.




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