5 different waves working today in Playa Hermosa with the Reef looking fun early. As the tide filled in the other spots were turning on nicely. Mounds was making a long rolling A frame and there were 2 or 3 different peaks looking fun at Kiddie Pools…..with nobody surfing all of this. I told my fiancee as we were walking to the rocky point left that with the conditions today there were so many waves and spread out different peaks that the beach could handle 50 surfers or more. But there were ZERO. It is still like a dream walking this beach and seeing nobody surfing on a day like today. Just one local fisherman handlining off the beach. This small stretch of beach is still as quiet and untouched as ever. We arrived at the point and I was super pleased to find consistent head high lefts with some sets up to 2 feet overhead. I was the only one surfing with my choice of waves. Some sets were arriving with 8 or 10 waves and the bigger, the better. This is what I love about GreenSurf not being located in El Transito any more. The surf closes out in El Transito much of the high wave season because the small crescent shaped beach just cannot handle long period waves. Almost every wave I took today provided room for at least 3 turns…..and I surf slow, there are 2 distinct barrel sections on the wave and it can be longgg…..I had 7 turns on one wave that ran from the peak all the way to the far inside bay. 8 out of 10 today and jelly legs from a sweet 2 and half hour session. Thanks to my beautiful fiancee Janeth for taking photos. more swell in the water, maybe a bit more energy for tomorrow Thursday and still energy in the water for the coming week.
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